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A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves
Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada
Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not always agree with this model result, thus, understanding the mechanisms seems essential. To this end, the global analysis technique, originally developed to describe the long term behavior of bars (saturation of the bar growth), is also applied here to the initial stage of the bar evolution (formation of the bars). As a result, rip channels grow slower for larger wave angle because of the weakening of the instability mechanism -that only depends on the cross-shore current- rather than the increase of the damping due to the diffusive bedslope transport.
2012-05-10
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
Nonlinear systems
No-linealitat
Restricted access - publisher's policy
Conference Object
World Scientific Publishing Company
         

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